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Solar life |
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Designed by Brian Fields. |
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Circuits |
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These are all the schematics that I used in my robots plus a bunch more that I have found on the web. These schematics are to be used for personal use only. Also if there are any mistakes please email me. *Note none of these are my circuits. I just use them. |
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Fled Solar Engine |
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1381 Solar Engine |
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Miller Solar Engine |
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BEAM ANT |
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This circuit is really great, a bit harder then the other circuits, but really cool. You will need to stack two or more chips onto each other to be able to drive the motors . All the caps are .22uf and the resistors that aren’t marked are 1 meg. C1 & C2 are the reverse caps so experimenting is required to suit your needs. A good solar engine is a miller engine with .5F-1F a good caps range. Pins down |
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The Shok Popper is a rather good popper circuit. This is the same one that I used in Tank. I like this popper because it is rather simple to make. It only requires a minimal of parts and is very clean when you put it all together. I highly advise this circuit. |
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The fled SE is one of the first things that I built when I got into beam robotics. It is very easy to build and the parts are very easy to find. You can actually get all the parts from a local Radio Shack. The only downfall about the Fled SE is that it’s not very efficient. |
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The Miller SE is by far the greatest SE (my personal opinion). It is used for a wealth of different poppers and other such robots. This free form version of the SE shows that there is a resistor which is not really needed. Unless your going to drive a LED then you may want a low value resistor . The cap value it totally up to you and what the miller engine is going to be needed for. Normally its about .47uf but you can go as high as 1000uf (you may fall asleep watching your robot move though). Pins are facing up. |
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The 1381 is another SE that is rather efficient as well. I don’t really use this SE. It very good if you want to build it for a symet or what ever else your mind can think up of. The resistor is 2.2k. The light sensitive 1381 SE is the same thing as the regular 1381 its just that it has a photodiode to make it light sensitive. |
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Light Sensitive |
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The Fred popper is close to the easiest popper out there that you could build. Blue eyes and Panel are both this circuit. The trick to this circuit is that if you want this popper to seek light right you have to make sure that the fleds are evenly matched. This can easily be done but using a voltammeter and a photo can(the black cylinder one). What you can do it poke the leads out of the top of the film cylinder thing and then check the resistance with you meter. Its important that when your checking the resistance that the fled is totally in the dark. Once you have even match fleds then your ready to go. For a Very good tutorial on this popper go to http://www.geocities.com/raydiaz8/beam.htm |
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Well I really don’t have much to say about his one as it is a very simple circuit. I think it’s as simple as you can get on a ac240 chip. I have built this circuit before but was not please with its performance– so it got hacked into for the parts. |
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1381 Popper This is probably the most common Photovore out there. It is a very nice robot. I have built 3 of these guys but all thee of them have met a horrible death. I highly recommend this circuit to anyone who want to build a great Photovore. It can be a little complicated to build though-as it can get rather cramped when soldering everything together. These are just two way that this circuit can be built. A good tutorial is on Chui's site which can be found on solarbotics.net on there hosted sites page, and pagermotors.com. I personally favor the one on Pagermotors.com because his is put together much better and is very clear. |